Something for the local club - The CROWS

These lads were waiting for me at the Argentiere Hut

And Finally

After a good night we left Zermatt and spent a day travelling by train back to Chamonix. It was good to get the weather to finish the route but it would still have been a great mountain experience regardless. We met some great people and spent time amongst the most amazing scenery in Europe and that alone made the trip worth while.

The trip back to Chamonix was relaxing and enjoyable with the train trip from Matigny to Argentiere and back to France particularly spactular. We collected our gear from the Belvedere and said good bye to everyone before returning to Geneve and home.

Zermatt at last!

We are in zermatt we made it! Today, we crossed seven high glaciers, three mountan cols and two Countries in approximate thirty KM journey. We are in a small guest house and are well rested and fed. We're heading back to Chamonix tomorrow by train.

We started out at about 6.30 am from the Vignettes Hut under a blue cloudless sky (the forecast had got it wrong but in a good way for a change). At some stage during the night the high winds died down. Unfortunately, a couple of lads didn't make it to the hut and in the clear morning light they could be seen about 500 m away and 300 m up the glacier. The Air Glacier rescue helicopter was making brave efforts to get to them but the avalanche risk was high and the unlucky pair were in a terrible place. Hopefully they got down and without any cold injuries.

The move to the first col (Col L'Eveque) was difficult. With the temperatures down at -20C the skins wouldn't stick on Gerry's skies. They kept falling off giving him huge difficulty. I tried using gaffer tape but it just broke into pieces. Gerry eventually managed with some tape that was stored in the rucksack and two velcro straps. First prize for being cool under pressure. We eventually got to the coll and into the sun light and everything started working again! A great ski down into the Glacier D'Arolla valley and an amazing skin up the next valley with the Bouquitin Hut visible on the far side high up on the ridge. The Col de Tsa de Tsan looked inviting but the route went straight up the steep slope straight ahead.

The second col (Col Mount Brule at 3400 m) was indeed steep and difficult and we had to carry the skies on our ruck sacks. With the weight now almost 18Kg the altitude certainly kicked in! Again, the views were fantastic.

The third col (Col de Vapelline at 3800 m) required a long traverse across the glacier. Groups broke up into 2s and 3s and the heat took its toll. After 2 hours the tip of the Matterhorn came into view a great moment; leaving us just 14 Km to go. We passed the Finns and other groups on the climbs but their excellent skiing meant that they left us behind once the down hill sections came.

Some back slapping and a few nice pints of beer at the first cabane we came to and then a ski down to the town of Zermatt at 6pm in the evening.

The main objective now was to get somewhere to stay for the night.

Zermatt sits at the bottom of the Matterhorn and cars are not allowed. We nearly got run over by the little electric vans that act as taxis until we got used to them.

The Alpen Rose Hotel was the first hotel we called to and we were glad to find it was reasonably priced and had a restaurant.

The first shower after 6 days was just magic!

The Weather strikes back!

Well we arrived in the Vignettes Hut (double click on the image to the right to see the hut high up on the mountain), with the weather restricting our progress once more, tomorrow we have to tackle a hard 28K route so we're in for a long day.

On the way to the hut we diverted slightly to climb Pigne D'Arolla at 3796 m. Unfortunately we had zero visability from the top so it was a bit disappointing.

Finding the Vignettes was tricky in the low visability and at one point we had to ski alone across a high avalanche risk area. This was the only hut that had a resident dog. We were glad to hear the mutt barking at our arrival.

(PS. The following morning we got up at 5am and went out into a blizzard. The temperature was around -30 with the wind chill and after struggling through 1.5 meter deep snow we made a decision at the col to return to the hut. A small number of mountaineers did move out towards Zermatt but the majority retreated to Arolla or stayed put like ourselves. A day of rest followed with fingers crossed for some decent weather for what effectively will be out last day. We waited anxiously for the weather forecast at 8.30 pm)

Progress!

We left the Mont Blanc massif and travelled around to Verbier by rail and cablecar moving into the Mont Fort hut. The idea was that the weather might be better and allow us to progress from this side. The weather cleared enough to allow us to move out and we arrived at the Prafleuri Hut in pretty good time. A beautiful hut, located as usual on a high point to avoid avalanches. The final part of the day was in zero visibility. We were in the area of the hut (within 100 m) for quite some time before we located it. As it turned out we were the only people there so we got great attention from Babette the Guardiane. Lovely hut only recently renovated. Our guide book was out of date and described it as a basic hut where you had to mealt snow for water and indeed we initially occupied a building that fitted the description exactly. After an hour Gerry discovered there was a new building just around the corner. We were glad we didn't sit all night freezing in the old hut.

Yesterday, and after another day of travel we got to the dix hut. This was the hardest day so far. Because, there was nobody at the Prafleuri we had to trail break and navigate all day. In deep powder and broken terrain that is an exhausting task. Also the avalanche risk was high (there was a reason there was nobody else around) and that added to the strain. The sun reflecting from the snow burned us badly on the face even with high sun factor. The climb from the Pas Du Chat was very hard after such a day and we had the strange experience of the Air Glacier service dynamiting the slopes once we cleared the valley. The heavy snow had made them all dangerous and a long distance event called the "Patrouille des Glaciers" was starting in three days. So, explosions and avalanches and a long pull to the Dix Hut finished off a hot and tiring day

The Guardian, Pierre at the Dix Hut came out to meet us - "The strong men from the Prafleuri have arrived". Gerry shouted back that we were looking for the Vignettes Hut. We had to put up with some slaggin for the rest of the night!

We decided we need to take the following day off after 6 straight days either training or on the route.

However, the follwing day was a beautiful day and so we climbed a mountan called La Louette from the Dix Hut. Not a complete rest but an easy day we are looking forward to tomorrow to the Vignettes and then its just to Zermatt on tuesday, weather permitting.

Foiled by the weather!

We spent Monday skiing off piste, practising off piste skill and then in the afternoon we skinned up to the Argentiere Hut (click on image to the right to view) arriving knackered at 6.30pm. Great meal and welcome from the Guardiane then a poor sleep and up at 5am to tackle the route to the Trient Hut.

Weather got worse as the morning progressed and we made the decision to return from the Chardonnet. We decided to descend the Argentiere Glacier by the right bank that required we cross the glacier roped. Liam was the "dope on the rope" as front man. Anyway all went ok and we didn't need to haul his skinny butt out of a crevasse.

Back in Argentiere at 2pm.

We met the Guides from the night before so at least some of them decided to return as well

Weather not good for the next 3 to 4 days - we will continue to work on skills and do plenty of off piste and skinning.

highs and lows

We got a place to stay in Argentiere in the Belvedere. Very basic but nice people. The rooms are all based around 4 bunks so it would have been better if Matt was with us. We have a different guest every night but there you go.

A good day practicing skills near the Lognan and Grand Montet. Skinned up about 900 meters and practiced avalanche rescue skills

The weather is not in our favour but we are setting off tomorrow anyway from Chamonix. The plan is to go to the Argentiere Hut at 2700 m to assist with the altitude training. We will then ski down to the Chardonnet Glacier and move on to the Trient Hut. The following day we will go to Champex and then on to start the Verbier route proper.

At lot of snow is forcast but we might get to Verbier before it or we will be beaten back by the weather.

The training and the nights sleep at the Argentier Hut will hopefully mean that we will be in good nick for the Chardonnet Glacier but we are prepared to back off if the conditions aren't correct. We are adding 2 days to the Verbier route by doing it this way but that is not an uncommon option.

On our way

At the Airport now and ready to roll. Met Danny Fenton on the bus. He is heading off to Berlin to do a marathon. He reminded us that we started out together 25 years ago in the Reserve. Feeling a bit old after that :-) but hey, at least we are all still doing something and each to his own. Best to luck to Danny

Bad news

Bad news today before the trip even starts. Matt was involved in an accident and has broken bones in his foot effectively putting the kybash on the trip for him. Everyone is gutted for him. Especially after all the training, investment and build up. We will keep him up to date on whats happening and no doubt think of him when the going is good and envy him when the going gets rough!